Chapter 8 Biting the Bullet As you would’ve gathered by now I’ve always been a lone wolf, and I liked it that way; d espite finding that one of the best fringe benefits of surfing was the camaraderie amongst the surfers. I’d early learnt not to talk to anyone in the water, to maintain my concentration on the horizon, getting the jump on the dozers, but afterwards at night it was enjoyable playing a few games of eight-ball, drinking some beers, and hearing about conditions at other breaks. In that manner I got to know quite a few new people, French, Brazilian, American, and plenty of Aussies. Their girlfriends were generally very attractive and everybody was friendly. We were all focused on doing the same thing. Riding some quality waves and sharing the beauty. The thing about the Australians was that they usually stayed for several weeks at least, and there was a general similarity amongst them. You could say they were easily and primarily recognized as being ...